Thirty-five years ago, I visited Vienna on my first backpacking trip to Europe. I have a faint memory of touring the Kunsthistorisches Museum, Naturhistorisches Museum, Schönbrunn Palace, and ...

At the Vienna State Opera, the crowd dresses the part. Clambering up the stairs to the standing section, where I scored a last-minute, €15 ($17.50) perch to watch Mozart’s Die Entführung aus dem ...